LuluKnits

Seed Stitch Ear flap Hat

2011-12-18T22:34:00.000-08:00

This hat is essentially the same as the previous hat, but without the ears and the addition of seed stitch flaps and edge to prevent curling. This pattern was pulled from the hey julie blog but she only gives the details in the comments section so it was a little harder to find. This makes a small size hat perfect for a newborn / baby size. You could adjust as needed to make a bigger size, see Julie's blog for more info.

YARN: Lion Brand Superwash Merino Cashmere in Seafoam (super soft!)
72% Superwash Merino Wool, 15% Nylon, 13% Cashmere
AMOUNT: Less than 1 ball (87 yards / 80 meters)
NEEDLES: US 8

EARFLAPS (MAKE 2)
CO 5 stitches
R1: *P1, K1* to last stitch, P1
R2: KFB, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, KFB (7 sts)
R3: *K1, P1* to last stitch, K1
R4: KFB, *P1, K1* P1, KFB (9 sts)
R5: *P1, K1* P1
R6: KFB *K1, P1* K1, KFB (11 sts)
R7: *K1, P1* K1
Continue in seed stitch until piece measures 2.75" then cut leaving a 12" tail. Leave on needle.
Repeat.

HAT
Using cable cast-on, CO 9 sts on circular needle. Knit the 11 sts from the first ear flap, then CO 21 sts. K 11 from second ear flap, then CO 9 sts. (61 sts)

Join, being careful not to twist stitches, place marker and begin knitting seed stitch in the round. K1, P1 around for 5 rows, then switch to knit all. Continue knitting until hat is almost 3" and Knit the two stitches together right before the marker. 60 sts. Knit all around until the hat measures 3" from the cast-on edge. Then begin the decreases, switching needles when it becomes to tight to knit around:

Decrease R1: *K8, K2tog*
Decrease R2: Knit all
Decrease R3: *K7, K2tog*
Decrease R4: Knit all
Decrease R5: *K6, K2tog*
Decrease R6: Knit all
Decrease R7: *K5, K2tog*
Decrease R8: *K4, K2tog*
Decrease R8: *K3, K2tog*
Decrease R10: *K2, K2tog*
Decrease R11: *K1, K2tog*

Pull yarn through remaining stitches with a tapestry needle, pull through to the inside and weave in ends. There were two gaps near the ear flap that I tightened up using the ends was weaving in from the ear flaps.

Baby Ear flap Hat with Ears

2011-12-06T22:04:00.000-08:00

front of hat

I really wanted to make a little baby hat with earflaps AND bear ears on top and it seemed impossible to find a pattern. I ended up combining a few different patterns together to get the result I wanted. It's a fun project and while it does take longer than a simple knit hat, it's still relatively quick. You still have time before Christmas!

YARN: Fiesta Cottonista in Painted Desert
50% Peruvian Pima Cotton, 50% Tencel
AMOUNT: Approx 1 ball (110 yards)
NEEDLES: US 5

I started by following the baby/kids earflap hat pattern from the hey julie blog in the middle 16" size (14", 16" and 18"):

Ear Flaps
CO 7 stitches.
Row 1: K1, P to last stitch, K1.
Row 2: K1, Kfb, K to last 2 stitches, Kfb, K1.
Repeat these two rows until there are 15 stitches on the needles.

Knit straight until piece measures 2.75" (3", 3.25").
Cut yarn, leaving a 12″ tail, and leave the earflap on its DPN.
Repeat for second ear flap.

Hat
Using a cable cast on, CO 10 (12, 14) stitches on the circular needle. Knit the 15 stitches from first ear flap, then CO 24 (27, 30) stitches. K15 from second ear flap, then CO 10 (12, 14).

Join, being careful not to twist stitches, place marker and begin knitting in the round. As you knit around this first row, you’ll notice four gaps, on either side of each ear flap. When you get to those, K2tog to close them up. At the end of the round, you should have 70 (77, 84) stitches on the needles.

Continue knitting all rounds until hat measures 3"″(3.5", 4"″) from the cast-on row. Then begin the decreases as follows, switching to DPNs or two circs when the diameter of the hat is too small for your circular needle:

(Decrease) Row 1: *K8 (9, 10), K2tog*
Row 2: K all sts
(Decrease) row 3: *K7 (8, 9), K2tog*
Row 4: K all sts
(Decrease) row 5: *K6 (7, 8), K2tog*
Row 6: K all sts

Decrease in this manner until there are 35 sts on the needles.
Then decrease in the same manner, omitting the “k all sts” rows, until there are 7 sts remaining.
Pull yarn through the last 7 sts with a tapestry needle, pull through to inside and weave in end.

Finishing
Weave in all ends. (I like to leave the tails where I ended the earflaps long so that I can use them to tighten up of otherwise correct anything that looks wonky around the earflap join area.)

back of hat

At this point I was a bit disappointed with how badly the edges were curling and knew even when I blocked, it's probably always going to curl a bit. To fix this, I decided to pick up and knit along the entire edge of the hat and earflaps.

Work your way around the hat edge, starting in the back, and make sure you have an even number of stitches. Once you're back where you started, begin a K1, P1 rib stitch. Go around the hat in this pattern twice and then bind off all stitches, keeping in the rib pattern. TIP: When binding off around the earflap curved edge, do so VERY loosely. If you bind off too tight here, the earflaps will pull weird towards the bottom.

Next I wanted to add the cute little bear ears on top. TIP: Leave a long tail here on BOTH ends of the ear piece to sew with! The ear pattern came from a hat on the Berroco website:

Ears (Make 2): With US 5 needles, cast on 11 sts. Work even in St st for 6 rows, end on WS.
Shape Top: Dec Row (RS): K1, k2 tog, k to last 3 sts, SSK, k1 – 9 sts. Rep this dec every RS row twice more, end on WS – 5 sts.
Inc Row (RS): K2, M1k, k1, M1k, k2 – 7 sts. In this manner, inc 1 st each side every RS row twice more, end on WS – 11 sts. Work 6 rows in St st. Bind off all sts. Fold ears in half and sew side seams. Sew one ear to each side of hat.

ear seam

So HOW do you sew the ears on? No idea. I found that the best option was to pin the ears in place so they were pretty well spaced and lined up, about 2" apart (1" over from the center of the top of the hat). Next I used one of the tail pieces of yarn and started the mattress stitch (shown here) to create an invisible seam. It worked! There are probably other ways to do this, but if you want it to look like part of the hat, this seems like the way to go.

Lastly, you could add the little braided cord down from the earflap, but I thought there might be too much going on with that. If you leave off the bear ears, I would definitely add the cord.

Baby B's Flame Chevron Blanket

2011-11-07T10:05:00.000-08:00

I've finally finished this Flame Chavron blanket I started in June for little Baby B. The lace pattern creates a really cool flow and is easy to learn once you get going. I think it's just the needle size that makes it take awhile.

FINAL SIZE: 34" long x 24" wide
YARN: Linea Pura, Lana Grossa, Organic Soy, Cotton and Bamboo
AMOUNT: Approx 4 balls (they are 50g, 110m each)
NEEDLES: US 8

CO 95 sts (pattern is worked over a multiple of 7 sts + 4, + 14 sts for border)

Start by knitting 10 rows of Seed Stitch (K1, P1)

(K1, P1) for 7 sts, place marker. Follow chart below for Row 1. Place marker, (K1, P1) for 7 sts.

Only RS rows are shown on the chart. When working WS rows, P all sts.

Continue to follow the chart starting and ending each row with 7 sts of Seed Stitch for border.

I followed this complete chart a total of 7 times. Once you finish the last row, Seed Stitch (K1, P1) for 10 rows, BO and weave in ends.

Make sure to block the finished blanket to open up the lace pattern.

TIP: Only the red section repeats which I couldn't see very well in my printout on my first row. Make sure you highlight that somehow if you print out the chart to carry with you. The chart can be found here.

Thanks to Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns and Laura Chau at Knitty

Linda's Baby Kit

2011-10-18T14:59:00.001-07:00

This cute little baby kit was made by my mother-in-law, Linda for an upcoming raffle. She did an amazing job, especially after not having knit for many, many years.

For the blanket she followed the diagonal garter stitch blanket pattern on this blog by pulling from two balls of yarn on size 11 needles.

She embellished the other pieces with some crochet and found the two patterns on Knitting Pattern Central.

Click here for the hat.
And here for the cute little booties.

I think I'm going to have to try and make these as well!

Snowball the Alpaca

2011-07-26T10:20:00.000-07:00

Meet Snowball. The cutest Alpaca in Maine, at least she looks like she would be. I haven't gotten to see her in person, but when my parents took a trip up to Maine from Boston last month they happened to pass by Winters Gone alpaca farm and store. Knowing of my yarn and knitting addiction, they decided to stop in and pick up a couple of skeins for me (nice!).

This farm is neat in the way that each yarn is labeled so you know exactly which alpaca your yarn came from and it is all the original animal's coloring. The yarn is so incredibly soft, I can't wait to knit something with it! Thanks mom!

Winters Gone | Bath, Maine | 800.445.2404

Ribbed Baby Hat

2011-06-07T10:37:00.000-07:00

To match the ribbed baby jacket I made, I thought this ribbed hat would go perfectly.

CO 48 sts on 16" size 8 circular needles
Join in the round, careful not to twist sts
*K2, P2* around and around until the work measures 4.75"-5"
If you want to fold the hat up at the bottom and have a little cuff, make it even longer.
*K2, P2TOG*
*K2, P1*
*K2TOG, P1*
*K1, P1*
*K2TOG*
Pull yarn through remaining 12sts and pull tight.
Weave in loose ends.

Baby Julia Sweetie Pie

2011-05-31T17:55:00.000-07:00

For baby Julia I decided to make the Sweetie Pie Kit (minus leggings) from the Pickles website. I used Rowan pure cotton in three colors. The thing is, something is very amiss with this pattern that I never could really figure out.

The little dress and hat is so very cute, but be warned if you attempt this pattern! I tore it out 3-4 times before I remembered I could use a "life-line" to hold my spot just before I got to the problem area of casting-off for the sleeve holes.

In order to use a life-line, simply take a sewing needle and some contrasting yarn (preferably thin) and carefully thread it through every stitch you are working. Continue knitting as normal and hopefully you don't need to use it. If you do, just take the work off the knitting needles and pull out all of the stitches until you get to the contrast yarn. It will not allow you to pull out those stitches, so you just pick up all the stitches with your knitting needles again. As you continue to work on a project, you may want to add a new life-line every few inches so you don't have to pull out so much of the piece if you mess up later.

Here is the link if you want to give it a go:
http://www.pickles.no/sweetie-pie-kit/

Good luck!

Baby Billy Kamanaolana

2011-05-18T23:36:00.000-07:00

This cute little set just went out in the mail today, destined for beautiful O'ahu and undoubtedly a beautiful new baby boy! Hope the mom-to-be enjoys her knit kit.

How to Sew a Button on Knits

2011-05-11T11:42:00.000-07:00

This seems simple, but sewing a button onto something made of yarn can be much trickier than just a regular piece of fabric. Here is a step-by-step guide...

Start with threading decent size needle and doubling up the thread. Tie an overhand knot at the end of both threads together. Now you have a double-thick piece of thread through the needle you will be sewing with.

1
Decide where you need to have the button align and then on which stitch you want to attach the thread.

2
Bring the needle under the knit stitch, but only pull it through halfway. Then take the needle through the loop sticking out at the end, where your knot is from tying the thread together. This attaches the thread to the yarn before you add the button.

3
Thread the button hole and align the button where it needs to be. Sew the button on as normal, around and around through the holes.

4
When you've done this 10 times or so and it feels secure, bring the needle down through one button hole, but NOT through the knit. Your needle will pop out in the space between the button and the knit item.

5
Wrap thread around and around the base of the button 4-6 times (depending on how much thread you have left) and thread needle through all of the rounds you made into the knit item.

6
Knot the thread as usual on the back side of the knit (similar to how you attached the yarn in step 1) 2-3 times.

Done!

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2011-05-04T19:04:00.000-07:00

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Enjoy this Day

2011-05-04T11:49:00.000-07:00

TODAY IS THE OLDEST YOU'VE EVER BEEN,
YET THE YOUNGEST YOU'LL EVER BE,
SO ENJOY THIS DAY WHILE IT LASTS.

Cutie Baby Kit [ Hat + Socks ]

2011-04-17T19:11:00.001-07:00

This soft gray yarn was so great to work with that I made a baby jacket (coming soon) my first pair of socks and a beanie hat.

I used about three 50g balls of Classic Yarns "Cashsoft DK" in a cool gray color for all the items, or about 430 yards.

Hat

CO 72 sts on size 5 circular needles.
Join the work in the round, careful not to twist the stitches.
Start with a rib pattern: *K2, p2* until work is about 2"
Then start to K all sts until work measures 5"

Start to decrease:
Row 1: *K6, K2tog* 9 times
Row 2: *K5, K2tog*
Row 3: *K4, K2tog*
Row 4: *K3, K2 tog*
Row 5: *K2, K2tog*
Row 6: *K1, K2og*
Thread needle through remaining stitches and pull tight.
Weave in loose ends.

The fun part is adding on the two buttons (even though they do not serve a purpose aside from looking cute) which I just happened to have and matched the gray color. I think sewing on a tiny bow would also be really cute if it were for a girl.

Baby Socks

These socks were knit on two needles and then seamed up the back in one long seam when finished. SO much easier than trying to deal with DPNs! This pattern is based on one that I had found, but is changed enough to be different. It should fit 6-12 months (?), but really I have not tried them on any babies, so am not 100% sure.

Keep in mind that after the ribbing section, the whole thing is worked in stockinette stitch so you need to make sure you alternate your knit and purl rows accordingly.

Abbreviations:
st(s): Stitch(es)
K: Knit
P: Purl
st st: Stockinette stitch
K2tog: Knit 2 sts together in order to decrease 1 st.
P2tog: Purl 2 sts together in order to decrease 1 st.
skpo: slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 stitch, pass the slipped stitich over the knit stitch. This will decrease 1 stitch.
turn: Instead of completing the row as normal, stop after the designated stitches and flip the work over to work only this section.

With size 5 needles, CO 36 sts

Work a rib pattern *K1, P1* for 6 rows
Row 7: K all
Row 8: P all
Row 9: K5, K2tog, K to last 7 sts, skpo, K5
Row 10: P all
Row 11: K5, K2tog, K to last 7 sts, skpo, K5
Row 12: P all
Row 13: K5, K2tog, K to last 7 sts, skpo, K5
Row 14: P all
Row 15: K4, K2tog, K to last 6 sts, skpo, K4
This leaves 28 sts

Row 16: P all
Row 17: K all
Row 18: P all
Row 19: K all

Shape heel:
Next Row: P8 sts ONLY, then turn.
Work these 8 sts ONLY in st st for 9 rows.

Then, making sure you're on the wrong side:
Next Row: P2, P2tog, P1, turn
Next Row: Sl 1, K3
Next Row: P3, P2tog, P1, turn
Next Row: Sl 1, K4
Next Row: P4, P2tog

Break (really, just cut it with a tail left to weave in later) and leave those 5 sts on a stitch holder.

Now with the wrong side facing, slip the center 12 sts onto a stitch holder, rejoin the yarn to the remaining 8 sts and P to the end.
Work 8 rows in st st on these 8 sts ONLY

Next Row: K2, skpo, K1, turn
Next Row: Sl 1, P3
Next Row: K3, skpo, K1, turn
Next Row: Sl 1, P4
Next Row: K4, skpo, turn
Next Row: Sl 1, P4

Shape instep:
K5, pick up and K8 sts evenly along inside edge of heel, K12 sts from stitch holder, pick up and K8 sts evenly along inside edge of heel, and K5 from stitch holder.
38 sts total

Next Row: P all
Next Row: K11, K2tog, K12, skpo, K11
Next Row: P all
Next Row: K10, K2tog, K12, skpo, K10
Next Row: P all
Next Row: K9, K2tog, K12, skpo, K9
Next Row: P all
Next Row: K8, K2tog, K12, skpo, K8
30 sts total

Work 13 more rows in st st

Shape toe:
Next Row: K1, [skpo, K5] 4 times, K1
Next Row: P all
Next Row: K1, [skpo, K4] 4 times, K1
Next Row: P all
Next Row: K1, [skpo, K3] 4 times, K1
Next Row: P all
Next Row: K1, [skpo, K2] 4 times, K1

[P2tog] 7 times

Thread needle through remaining stitches and pull tight.
Use the mattress stitch to sew up the back for the seam.
Repeat for other sock.

Mock Honeycomb Baby Hat

2011-04-17T18:17:00.000-07:00

Yep, it's been awhile. But I'm back knitting up a storm...

This is a fun little baby hat to make in the round. I made mine too small, but have adjusted the pattern below to be a more realistic baby size. To fit ages approx. 0-3 months (6+ months).

Needles: US #8, circular and dpn, or two circular
Malabrigo, Pure Merino Wool
Less than half the ball (ball total is 216 yards)

Abbreviations:
st(s): Stitch(es)
K: Knit
P: Purl
M1: Make one st by knitting the stitch, then knitting it again before dropping it from your needle.
Sl: Slip the stitch
wyif: With yarn in front (as if to purl)

With 16" circular needles, cast on 64(72) sts
Join in the round, careful not to twist sts
K2, P2 until the piece measures 2"

M1 st
Now you have 65(73) sts

Begin mock honeycomb pattern:
(Multiple of 4 + 1)
Rows 1, 3 and 5: Knit all
Rows 2 and 4: k1, *sl 3 wyif, k1; rep from *
Row 6: k2, *insert needle under all the slipped stitch strands below and knit the next st bringing the strands over and off the right needle, k3; rep from *, end last rep k2
Rows 7, 9 and 11: Knit all
Rows 8 and 10: k3, *sl 3 wyif, k1; rep from *, end k2
Row 12: k4, *insert needle under all the slipped stitch strands below and knit the next st bringing the strands over and off the right needle, k3; rep from *, end k1 Rep Rows 1-12

Once the work measures 5.5" start to decrease starting on row 1 or 7:
Row 1: K2tog, K all 64(72) sts
Row 2: *K6, K2tog* 8(9) times
Row 2: *K5, K2tog*
Row 3: *K4, K2tog*
Row 4: *K3, K2 tog*
Row 5: *K2, K2tog*
Row 6: *K1, K2og*
Thread needle through remaining 8 stitches and pull tight.
Weave in loose ends.

If you knit this pattern, will you please let me know how the size turned out? Mine was very small when I CO 56 sts, but I want to make sure the larger sizes are appropriate. Thanks!

Divi Knit Hoodie

2010-11-11T11:12:00.000-08:00

One more post before we leave for Asia (yay!).... This super cute (and free) sweater project is the Divi Toddler Hoodie, found here on www.naturallycaron.com

I wanted to try this pattern since I loved the texture, and especially wanted to learn how to add a hood. Turns out this was a little tricky since the pattern did not specify that you actually need to fold the hood in half and seam it up the bound-off edge. Then you attach the cast-on edge to the sweater. Would have been nice to know before I was up till 2am trying to figure it out!

In the end, it all worked out and I learned how to do a basic crochet chain stitch as well. I decided not to use the Caron yarn recommended, although I like the Spa yarn and have used it for blankets in the past. Instead, I bought some Samp'a Naturally Dyed Organic Cotton by Mirasol which I really loved. It is so super soft, and what could be better than organic for a baby? This happened to be very reasonably priced online at www.yarn.com but I barely had enough to finish the 12–18 month size with 4 balls.

This is a great pattern since you don't have to pick up and knit anything and the pattern is really fun. One thing I should mention, I did alter the texture. For:
Row 1 (RS): * P1, p2tog, yo, k1, yo, p2tog, p1; repeat from * across.
I decided I wasn't up for any extra purling, so I changed it to:

Row 1 (RS): * K1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k1; repeat from * across.
Because wouldn't we all rather have more knits than purls?
I was happy with the way it looked in the end, but probably looks a bit different from the original design.

Rainy Day Project

2010-10-20T10:28:00.000-07:00

With all the rainy weather we've been having, this could be a perfect fall project. If you have a pair of cute wellies, like the hunter ones shown here, you can make these adorable cable-knit cuffs that fold over the top of the boot. It would be nice and soft on the top edge, and look great too.

Daisy Stripe Baby Blanket

2010-10-09T10:05:00.001-07:00

For this blanket, I wanted to play with color and not worry about it being absolutely perfect. I simply picked out four juicy colors of Debbie Bliss Pure Cotton that I liked, and bought an extra ball of the green. Each of the five balls is 50g and requires a size US 8 needle. The cotton is super soft and works well for the summery theme.

This is a small newborn blanket (or travel blanket).
Final size is: 21" wide x 29" long

I used size US 10 metal needles. I am a tight knitter, so I went up in size to allow more looseness in the stitches to make the daisy pattern. I would recommend going up at least one needle size for this pattern and using a slick needle, like metal.

Lastly, feel free to switch up the colors whenever you feel like it, and don't worry about the stripes being exactly the same number in each color. You could simplify and just alternate 2 colors as well if you don't want to use four. Just remember that this daisy pattern really works best if you alternate colors as it makes the flower shape pop.

CO 81 sts (or a multiple of 4 + 1)
Border Rows 1-10 :: K all sts in master color (MC)
Blanket Pattern:
Row 1 (RS) :: K all sts in MC
Row 2 :: K1 *p3 tog and don't drop them off the needle, yo (wrapping yarn completely around needle), p same 3 together again and drop them, k1; rep from *
Row 3 :: Switch colors. K all sts
Row 4 :: K3 *p3 tog and don't drop them off the needle, yo (wrapping yarn completely around needle), p same 3 together again and drop them, k1; rep from *, end K2

Repeat Row 1-4, then repeat Row 1-2 (in your MC) to create 5 Rows of daisies.
K all sts for 4 Rows for the garter stripe in between daisy sections.

If you want to see a video on how to knit the daisy stitch click here.

For my colors, I switched them up every couple of daisy sections and made sure to end with the same MC again for the end border. Remember to carry the other color yarn up the side of the blanket by doing a simple twist of both yarns. Only cut that color yarn when you are completely done with it. You'll have much less finishing to do at the end this way.

When the blanket is the desired length, end K all sts for 10 rows again in MC. BO.

With right-side facing and your MC, pick-up and knit down one side length of the blanket. Only K one Row, then BO. Repeat on the other side.

Make sure to block when finished as the garter stitch is slightly wider than the daisy stitch and you can even everything out by blocking. Weave in ends.

Color chart for this blanket:

Braided Knit Headband

2010-10-05T12:58:00.000-07:00

After many attempts at this, I've finally decided on a pattern that works best and is most time efficient. Initially, I though I would braid three strips of stockinette stitch pieces. Of course, this stitch curls significantly on the edges. So I thought I would create tube shapes, where I stitched them closed on one side which would also make the headband reversible. Turns out that would take lots of seaming and became way too bulky.

SO, break out your cable needle for a braided cable that creates the same effect but all in one piece. (Thanks Amy for the idea!)

I used an alpaca tweed yarn that requires a size 8 needle. I pulled from 2 balls of yarn together and used #15 needles. This will curl a bit on the edge, so best bet is to block once you are done knitting, ideally before seaming. I've also alternated K and P stitches on the edge to help it stay a bit more flat.

CO 11 sts

Start Braid Pattern (multiple of 9 +2):
R1 (right side) :: K all
R2, R4, R6 + R8 (ws) :: K1, P9, K1
R3 :: K1, Slip 3 sts on cable needle and hold in back, K3, K3 off cable needle, K remaining sts
R5 :: K all
R7 :: K4, Slip 3 sts on cable needle and hold in front, K3, K3 off cable needle, K1

Continue in pattern until it measures slightly smaller than your head.
BO and seam ends together in mattress stitch.

Lulu..... Quilts?

2010-10-01T14:59:00.000-07:00

When I went to visit my parents in Boston, I was so excited to use my mom's new sewing machine since I don't have my own. We took a trip to the local fabric store and searched for some fun, modern, cotton prints that would be cute for a baby quilt. I wanted them to stay within the color palette, and avoid anything sappy sweet that you would typically use for a baby, like bunnies or pastel hearts.

Although I had some difficulty sewing straight to begin with (that glass of wine didn't help things either) I eventually got the hang of it and it became much easier and faster to sew each strip. I learned that by tearing fabric, you are more likely to get a straight piece. And I also learned that you should pin the pieces in place before sewing.

It was fun to add details to these as well, like a random patch sewn in place, or an area of wide stitching in the contrasting thread.

The back of each quilt is a solid piece of super soft flannel in a bold dot for the boy's quilt and a subtle pale pink and white polka-dot for the girls. For the quilting, I chose to use a contrasting thread color and designed abstract wave shapes. I drew each line on the back in chalk and then followed them as closely as possible for the finished result. It was great to take a mini-break from knitting and play with textiles and color in a new way. Plus, it's so much faster to sew a quilt than knit a baby blanket! Now back to my needles...

Super Cute Headband

2010-09-30T11:47:00.000-07:00

I'm in love with these Anthropologie headbands, but of course a knitter could never actually purchase such a thing! After studying them intently in the store (with the sales woman eyeing me suspiciously) it looks very do-able, (dare I say) maybe even easy! I think I just need to figure out the right gauge and then would knit three strips of stockinette stitch. Probably next I would bind-off each strip, then braid the three together. Then you would have to mattress stitch seam each one in order to ensure the whole thing doesn't come undone.

Hopefully I can post a pattern for this soon :)

So True. { Even in knitting }

2010-09-23T23:26:00.000-07:00

Diagonal Garter Stitch Blanket

2010-09-10T15:41:00.000-07:00

Although I was undecided about this yarn at first, I finally chose to create this diagonal garter stitch blanket pattern and was fairly satisfied with the result. If you're looking for a really easy pattern that you can have a glass of wine and watch TV while you work, this is the blanket for you.

I used the pattern from the Lion Brand website here.

I used larger needles, at US 10.5, and only had 4 balls of yarn total. It's easy to make this bigger or smaller... once you get halfway through your yarn, make sure you have a multiple of 4 stitches on the needles (I think) and start the decrease row till the end.

The pattern is as follows:
Cast on 5 sts.
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: K3, yo, k2.
Row 3: K3, yo, k3.
Row 4: K3, yo, k to end of row.
Rep last row until you have 144 sts on needle.
Next (decrease) row: K2, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k to end of row.
Rep last row until 5 sts remain. Bind off.
Weave in ends.

Another Cool Sweater

2010-09-07T10:24:00.000-07:00

I'll have to keep an eye out for a similar pattern to this cute cardigan worn by Sienna Miller. Love the gray, the three-quarter sleeves and love the ribbing detail around the collar!

Decisions

2010-08-25T18:22:00.000-07:00

Which hat is better for a little boy who is just turning 2 years old? I'm not sure if they are too girly, or if one is better than the other.... Help!

Tumba Shawl Jacket

2010-08-23T13:02:00.000-07:00

This was my second sweater project and it was so much fun! I love this pattern and it went quickly on the larger size needles. This pattern is free and can be found here at www.naturallycaron.com

I used the specified yarn in a different color, Ocean Spray, and made the 18 month size. I love the way the collar looks and was happy I didn't have to pick up and knit any stitches at all! I wonder a little about the yarn. Personally, I really don't like working with Acrylic, although this had some Merino Wool in it too which helped to soften it.

If you have not made a sweater before than this one could be a really fun first attempt. You'll learn a few new techniques that I think any intermediate knitter could pick up with the help of some you-tube videos.

The Bad Juju Blanket

2010-08-19T23:16:00.000-07:00

I am obsessing. I have started and then pulled out a blanket at least a dozen times. So many times that even my husband commented that I've been "working that yarn for awhile now." Sometimes it's impossible to find the right balance of fun and relaxing with challenging and interesting. Sometimes the cheap, junky yarn you bought just doesn't help things either.

When I was a kid, I was addicted to the Legend of Zelda video game. I would play as much as I was possibly allowed, and then lay awake in bed thinking about it most of the night. Strategizing. Figuring out how I was ever going to be able to beat that leader of the fifth underworld or whatever the current dilemma might be. And this sort of reminds me of that game. Will I do a chunky cable-knit, or a simple lace? A complicated knit and purl pattern, or just a stripe or rib? What is 8 times 4, plus 16 times 2, plus an extra 10 for the border stitches? Maybe I'm just really OCD, but each time I'd get about 10–15 rows into it, I would rip it out and start over.

So I give up. I'm making a diagonal garter stitch blanket and that's the end of it. I need to get this yarn out of the house and never think about it again!

Sweater Pattern Search

2010-08-15T12:34:00.000-07:00

I am completely in love with this super chunky Twinkles sweater from InStyle, but cannot seem to find a similar pattern anywhere. Has anyone seen anything like this lately?

Custom Labels

2010-08-13T13:03:00.001-07:00

In a past post I showed my custom hangtag, which gives washing instructions and shows the yarn content. When I started making sweaters, I was bothered by the fact that there was no label, like normal clothes would have. I began looking into ways I could get a custom tag made at an affordable cost.

Turns out, the cheapest and nicest option I found was getting a custom ribbon made. Usually these are used for weddings or parties, but if you order a roll for your tag, you can just snip one off at a time and sew them in place. There are lots of color and font options as well and mine happens to have the decorative loops along the edge.

One tip that helps is to slightly coat the edges with some sort of Elmer's Glue so they will not fray once cut from the roll. Then I sew each edge under to give it a neat look, and sew it into the piece, being careful not to let those stitches show though to the back of the sweater. These would also be nice for the corner of a scarf or blanket as well.

Check out www.namemaker.com for a really good selection. I chose the 3/8" satin loop edge shown here. You can often find coupons online for this company as well, so my order ended up costing about $17 including shipping.

First Baby Sweater

2010-08-12T23:54:00.000-07:00

I know it's been awhile, but I've been obsessing over sweaters and am now finally sitting down to post them. I was originally terrified of the finishing work that sweaters require, so I decided to take a basic class. But guess what? It really isn't so bad, and it's fun seeing all your pieces come together to make an adorable little sweater.

The key is learning the mattress stitch and maybe the three needle bind-off. Once you can do these techniques, you can pretty much make any basic sweater.

This pattern was assigned to us for the class, although I think there are better first sweater patterns out there, that I will post. This one is more tricky since it involves picking up stitches to knit the ribbing around the neck and buttons, and adding the button holes within the ribbing band.

This pattern is called the "Classic Baby Cardigan" for double-knitting weight yarn. It is by Theresa Gaffey Designs, #46 if you are interested in making this sweater. I'm not really supposed to post it, but the other patterns I made following this one were free and online. I used Sublime baby cotton kapok dk in yellow no. 0152 which is a really soft yarn to work with.

One of the more interesting things we learned in the class is how to make a gauge swatch. It's actually much easier than I thought it would be. Turns out, I'm a pretty tight knitter so I now I know that I have to go one size bigger in needles to make my pieces the correct size.

Blanket Put to Good Use

2010-08-02T16:38:00.000-07:00

Wow, a baby is actually getting some use out of one of my blankets! This is the first pattern on here, the basket weave blanket. Little baby Alexander looks nice and comfy for his car ride :)

Ocean Cable Knit Blanket

2010-05-17T12:08:00.000-07:00

I wanted to create a timeless, creamy baby blanket in a simple cable pattern that would be perfect for a baby girl or boy. The organic cotton is extremely soft and makes for a nice San Diego climate blanket.

YARN :: Lion Brand Organic Cotton in Almond, approx 4 balls
FINAL SIZE :: 28" x 20"
NEEDLES :: US 9 (5.5mm)
PATTERN :: Multiple of 8

CO 88 sts.
K1, P1 in a seed stitch for 5 rows (knit the purls and purl the knits)

Row 1 :: Seed st (for border) 4 sts, place marker, K80, place marker, end seed st 4 sts

Rows 2, 4, 6, 8 :: Seed st 4 sts, P80, end seed st 4 sts

Row 3 :: Seed st 4 sts, * slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back, K2 sts then K2 sts from cable needle, K4 * end seed st 4 sts

Row 5 :: Seed st 4 sts, K80, end seed st 4 sts

Row 7 :: Seed st 4 sts, * K4, slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front, K2 sts then K2 sts from cable needle * end seed st 4 sts

Repeat rows 1-8 until desired length
Remove markers, K1, P1 in a seed stitch for 5 rows (knit the purls and purl the knits)
BO and weave in ends

Simple Fingerless Gloves

2010-05-10T11:04:00.001-07:00

After I made the heart hat, I wanted to make the coordinating striped mittens from the Pickles website. However, after talking to Amy, we decided there wasn't much need for mittens in sunny SoCal, and that I should make fingerless gloves instead. My first attempt was to imitate the stripes on the original mitten pattern, but then I realized I would never ever wear the clown-ish mitts pictured below. Instead, I opted for a solid from the soft merino wool leftover from the hat base color and knit some simple cream gloves, which I love.

The first attempt to match the heart hat mittens

To make the solid fingerless gloves, I used the malabrigo merino wool yarn leftover from the hat in natural #63. I picked up some amazing KA brand US 8 needles in only a 9" circular so that I could knit these in the round instead of DPN which was really fun. These needles seem to be very hard to find but I got them at Knitting by the Beach in Solana Beach, or it looks like you could order them online here.

Start by CO 32 sts (I used the Cable Cast-On method for this, see post in March)

Join the round being careful not to twist the sts.

Work in a rib stitch, K2, P2 for 22 rounds, or until the piece is about 3"

K all sts for 2 rounds.
(Here is where you can continue in St stitch, knit every stitch, in the round for a longer length, if desired. I wanted mine to be fairly short and just cover my wrists, so I only knit 2 rounds before moving on to the hand section.)

My gloves just cover the wrist.

Make 1 st (M1), K6, M1, K to the end of the round.
You should have 34 sts at the end of this round.

K all sts for 3 rounds.

M1, K8, M1, K to the end of the round.
You should have 36 sts at the end of this round.

K all sts for 3 rounds.

M1, K10, M1, K to the end of the round.
You should have 38 sts at the end of this round.

K all sts for 3 rounds.

Here you'll make the thumb hole:
K2, Bind-off 8 sts, K to the end of the round.
This part is tricky because you really need to K4 at the start of the row so that when you begin to bind-off, you leave 2 sts at the start of the round and bind-off the following 8 sts.
You should have 30 sts at the end of this round.

K2, Cast-on 2, K to the end of the round.
You should have 32 sts at the end of this round.
When you cast-on here, you want to use the Backwards Tail method. It is show here under "Single Cast-On, also known as Backward-Loop Cast-On"

K all sts for 8 rounds or until the section after the thumb is approx. 1.5"

Switch to the rib st, K2, P2 for 5 rows or until the rib section measures about 1"

Bind-off and assemble ends.

The other glove is made in exactly the same way, just flip it over. This pattern was based on a pattern from Lion Brand Yarn, shown here.

I Heart Knitting Hat

2010-05-09T10:36:00.000-07:00

This hat was my first attempt at fair isle knitting, and it was cool. I got the pattern from Pickles but decided to modify the patter to make it on US 8 needles instead of 6, and only have 3 rows of hearts instead of 5.

For the cream background color, I used malabrigo worsted in Natural, with the colored hearts in Cascade Heathers. Ideally, the entire hat would be made in the same yarn. Since I have such a large head, I still CO 100 sts on US 8.

Knit a rib stitch, K2, P2 until the piece is 2"

This link from knittinghelp.com has a great video under knitting with two colors (stranding method) on how to knit something with two colors like this. The key is not pulling the new color too tight to avoid the entire thing puckering.

Knit one round and start the pattern. Change colors every time you start a new row of hearts.

As soon as you've finished the third row of hearts, start decreasing.

If you want to make the larger hat size (like mine) decrease like this:
1st round: *K2tog, K 18* Repeat from * to * throughout the round.
Knit one round.
3nd round: *K2tog, K17* Repeat from * to * throughout the round.
Knit one round.
5th round: *K2tog, K16* Repeat from * to * throughout the round.
Knit one round.
7th round: *K2tog, K15* Repeat from * to * throughout the round.
Knit one round.
9th round: *K2tog, K14* Repeat from * to * throughout the round.
Knit one round.
Then continue the decrease pattern (subtracting one stitch off the one you're knitting every round) until you have 12 sts left.

If you want the hat to be a smaller and less baggy, omit the "Knit one round" in between the first several decrease rows and just decease every row.

When 12 stitches remain, use a needle to thread the yarn through the stitches and pull. Assemble.

Coordinating fingerless gloves to come.

Domestic Goddess

2010-04-29T18:35:00.000-07:00

For the perfect Mother's Day gift I've decided to make three dishcloths to send my mom. My grandmother has always used hand-knit dishcloths in her house, knitted by her sister in Nebraska. At first these seemed odd, but after using them there I realized they are really nice and soft. Plus it's a fun way to try out a new pattern!

For all three towels I used size US 10.5 needles and cast-on 30 stitches in the cable cast-on method. You can use any 100% cotton yarn and for these I knit with two strands of yarn held together. Most of the yarn is the cheapy Sugar 'n Cream brand (only 1.99!) while one teal-blue color in the first towel was Paton Pure organic cotton left over from Atom's baby blanket.

Checks and Ridges Towel

To get this stripe effect, I pulled from both white and teal-blue yarn for 2 sets of the pattern and then did one set of the pattern with a color that changed from dark teal to lime green. I did this 4 times and then ended with 2 sets of the white and teal-blue colors.

This pattern is a multiple of 4 + 2
My pattern was using 26 sts and I added a border of K2 on either side of the towel.

CO 30 sts
R1 :: k all
R2 :: k all
R3 :: k2, p2 * k2, p2 * repeat from * to * and end with the k2 border
R4 :: k4 *p2, k2 * repeat from * to * and end with the k2 border

When the piece looks like an approximate square, knit all stitches for 2 rows and BO.
Weave in ends.

Ribbed Towel

For this towel I pulled from both a solid blue color and another strand that changed from tealy-greens to lime to light blue.

CO 30 sts
R1-3 :: k all
R4 :: k2 * yo, sl1, k1 * k2
R5 :: k2 * yo, sl1, k2tog * k2

Repeat row 5 until the piece is approximately a square shape.

To end:
R1 :: k2 * k1, k2tog * k2
R2-3 :: k all

Bind-off and weave in ends.

This pattern based on the site here.

Garter Steps Towel

This towel was probably the least successful, but was a great learning exercise for me to try the "pick up and knit" technique. By making the towel a little longer than wide, I could go back in with a solid blue color and add a contrasting edge. A sample of the pattern without the borders can be seen here. If I made this again, I would start the pattern with the solid blue yarn and knit 4 rows as well, then switched to blue and white so that all four sides matched.

This pattern is a multiple of 8 and I added a k3 border on each side.

CO 30 sts
R1 and all odd rows :: k all
R2 + R4 :: k3, * k4, p4 * end k3
R6 + R8 :: k5 * p4, k4 * end p4, k5
R10 + R12 :: k3 * p4, k4 * end k3
R14 + R16 :: k3, p2 *k4, p4 * end k4, p2, k3

Once the shape is more of a rectangle, BO. Go back along the vertical edges, picking up stitches and knitting a garter stitch border for 4 rows. I learned how to do this by watching a video on knittinghelp.com here. The corners are pretty sloppy, but next time I'll have the hang of it!

Obsessed with Hats (Part 3)

2010-04-20T19:04:00.000-07:00

For hat number three, I decided to try the warm pom-pom hat pattern I had based Erich's Monkee's Hat from, but sans pom-pom. And this time, it'll be really warm since it's alpaca and kid mohair yarn. For my snowboarding-goddess friend Kate, I wanted to make something warm and cute for her next snowy trip.

Kate's Cute Cable Hat

Kate with her new hat at happy hour

I started with Bernat Alpaca yarn in natural so it would be warm and also used Habu Textiles silk mohair yarn in a sage green. I pulled from both balls of yarn and loosly cable cast-on 72 sts.

First knit round and round in a rib, K2 P2 until the work is 2".

Next you switch to the moss stitch:
Row 1: K1 P1 the whole round.
Row 2: P1 K1 the whole round.
You always knit over a purl stitch and purl over a knit stitch.

Knit 25 moss stitches, then the cable diagram under, followed by knit 26 moss stitches. Continue like this until the work measures about 7.25".

I just recently learned how to read these diagrams. It's actually very easy! You just start with the bottom right corner as your first stitch in the pattern and work left. Once you finish that row, just move to the next one above. So after you knit the moss stitch for 25 sts, begin with the purl in the bottom right corner, moss stitch for 5 sts and then work into the cable pattern portion.

Now here is the tricky part. The pattern says to: Knit one row while you’re decreasing every third stitch = about 56 stitches left then Knit two rounds. But I didn't want to switch from the moss stitch so early since I thought it may look weird without the pom-pom. Instead I fudged the moss stitch and then went right back into it for 2 rounds.

After that, you decrease in three different places to avoid decreasing in the cable pattern, as it would look terrible.

Start the round by knitting two stitches together. K 10, 2 stitches together, knit until you’re 10 stitches past the cable diagram, knit 2 stitches together.
Continue to decrease in the same spot 10 times in total (10 rounds).

Cut the yarn and pull a needle through the rest of the stitches. Tighten!
To view the original pattern click here.

Obsessed with Hats (Part 2)

2010-04-15T18:12:00.000-07:00

After the Monkees hat I was feeling a little more confident and decided to try one for myself this time. It's a bit girly, but oh so soft and comfy. This knits up quick (one episode of Lost and a couple hours) and would be fun in lots of color combinations.

Stripey Hat

I used a really soft bamboo blend for this hat; Bernat Bamboo Natural Blend in both Linen and another more taupey color. I'm not sure if bamboo is the best material for hats, but again, I had some laying around from a previous project.

Jerilyn modeling the stripey hat

Start by loosely casting on 64 stitches using circular US10 needles. I used the cable cast-on to give the edge a clean look.

Knit in the round.

Knit the rib, K2, P2 for about 2”.
Start knitting stockinette, and knit 6 rounds of the linen and the 2 rounds of taupe 3 times in total. Knit 5 rows of the linen and on the 6th row, start decreasing like this:
K 6, knit stitch 7 and 8 together. Repeat 8 times to complete the round.

Knit 2 rounds in the contrasting stripe color.

Switch back to the linen and finish decreasing the top of the hat:
K 5, knit stitch 6 and 7 together. Repeat 8 times to complete the round.
Knit 2 rounds.

K 4, knit stitch 5 and 6 together. Repeat 8 times to complete the round.
Knit 1 round.

K 3, knit stitch 4 and 5 together. Repeat 8 times to complete the round.
Knit 1 round.

K 2, knit stitch 3 and 4 together. Repeat 8 times to complete the round.

K 1, knit stitch 2 and 3 together. Repeat 8 times to complete the round.

Knit two and two stitches together.

Use a needle to get the strands through the rest of the stitches and pull through.
Assemble the ends.

This was based on a pattern I found here, but made it less long/baggy.

Obsessed with Hats (Part 1)

2010-04-14T13:54:00.000-07:00

So I never understood how to make a hat before. Lucky for me, my knitting guru-friend Amy was able to teach me this weekend. And now I'm completely obsessed! Somehow knitting in the round makes it even harder to stop because you can just keep going and going and going... In two days I've made two hats, and after doing the first, the second seemed much easier.

Erich's Monkees Hat

Remember that guy in the Monkees that never took off his green beanie hat? Well, ever since I made this hat for Erich it's been like that. I know it's getting to be a joke (last night he slept in it!) but it sure looks cute on him!

For this hat I used US 10 circular needles and some Lion Organic Cotton yarn. I would have liked something other than cotton, but this is all I had around and it doesn't get that cold in San Diego anyway.

Cast on 72 stitches and knit in the round.
Knit a rib, K2 P2 until the work is approx 2".
Row 1: knit 31 sts, P2, and then slip 3 sts onto a cable needle. Knit the next 3 sts and then K3 off the cable needle. P2 and then K31.
Row 2-3: knit 31 sts, P2, K6, P2 and then K31

Repeat this pattern until the desired length (about 6-7") and then start decreasing:
Knit one row while you’re decreasing every third stitch = about 56 stitches left.
Knit two rounds.
Start the round by knitting two stitches together. K 10, 2 stitches together, knit until you’re 10 stitches past the cable diagram, knit 2 stitches together.
Continue to decrease in the same spot 10 times in total (10 rounds).
Cut the yarn and pull a needle through the rest of the stitches. Tighten!

This pattern is based on a pattern I saw online here.

New Ways to Cast-On

2010-03-31T10:25:00.001-07:00

I had never really thought about new ways to cast-on at the start of a project. But then I got my Knitting Daily dose and realized there are endless ways aside from the usual long-tail technique I had gotten so comfortable with.

This technique below, called the Cable Cast-On is great because you don't have to estimate your tail length and it gives a very polished, twisted look on the edge of your project:

Begin with a slipknot and one knitted cast-on stitch if there are no established stitches. Insert right needle between first two stitches on left needle (Picture 1). Wrap yarn as if to knit. Draw yarn through to complete stitch (Picture 2) and slip this new stitch to left needle as shown (Picture 3).

Once you get this mastered, go ahead and try the cute and decorative Picot Cast-On:
1. Cast on a total of 5 stitches using the above Cable Cast-On method.

2. Bind off two stitches. (You'll have 2 stiches on the left-hand needle and 1 stitch on the right-hand needle.)

3. Slip the stitch on the right-hand needle onto the left-hand needle. (You'll have 3 stitches on the left-hand needle, with a space after the first two stitches, which is where you bound off the two stitches to make the picot. The stitch you slipped off of the right-hand needle counts as the first stitch in your next group of five.)

4. Use the cable cast-on to cast on 4 more stitches so you have 5 stitches after your last picot.

Repeat steps 2 through 5 until you have the required number of stitches cast on.

For more information on this (although you have to be a free member of Knitting Daily), visit: Picot Cast-On

Atom's Birthday Blanket

2010-03-23T13:44:00.001-07:00

Since baby Atom got my very first (and the very worst) baby blanket when he was born, I decided to make it up to him for his first birthday next month.

He is turning one and since he's obviously bigger than a newborn, the blanket had to be larger as well. The final size of this ended up being approx. 30" x 23" which will be big enough for him to nap under in his car seat or crib.

I know I've posted this blanket before with different yarn, but here is the pattern again. This time I used Patons Pure 100% Organic Cotton in three shades of colors (Sea 2 balls, Beige 1 ball and Taupe 1 ball) on size 11 needles. This pattern goes fast and is really fun.

Start with the Sea color and cast on 77 stitches, or any multiple of 11. Then knit the next 4 rows, or garter stitch. Follow that with the pattern below for 3 sets:

Row 1: K2 together, K2 together, YO, K1, YO, K1, YO, KI, YO, K2 together, K2 together.

Row 2 - 4: Knit the garter stitch.

Switch to the Beige color and follow the pattern for 2 sets, then the Taupe for 1, and Beige again for 2. Now go back to the Sea for 3 sets of the pattern. To make the center brown stripe, follow the pattern with the Taupe for 2 sets, Beige for 1 set and Taupe again for 2 sets. Once again, repeat the pattern with Sea for 3 and repeat the first stripe pattern once more. Finish with 3 more sets of the Sea color and then end with four additional rows of garter stitch before binding off.

Use the colors as you like if you don't want to follow this stripe pattern, but make sure that you always start knitting the new color on row 1.

I know it is taboo to knot in knitting. But let's be honest. Sometimes, especially with patterns this open, it's pretty hard to weave in the ends all that well. So I confess... I cheat. When I switch colors I end up going back and knotting them off and twisting the knot under into the first stitch so it's not as visible. This way, when baby Atom makes a mess and it needs to get washed, it isn't a big deal.

Hopefully he'll love his new birthday blanket!

Lucky 13 Reversible Scarf

2010-01-09T10:03:00.000-08:00

We're back from our amazing trip to New Zealand and Australia! More on that later...

This pattern is for a scarf I named Lucky 13 because of it's 13 row pattern. I came up with this scarf pattern while trying to figure out a way to make a reversable rib that wouldn't curl up along the whole edge. This solution creates a bit of a scalloped edge, but I love the way the overall texture turned out.

I used GGH's "Bel Air" yarn. This yarn is super soft and is made in Italy from 90% Merino and 10% Nylon. The color selection is great, with some subtle shades and other brights. I used 3 balls, but you could probably get away with 2 if you made a shorter scarf. Check out the yarn here:

http://www.yarnmarket.com/yarn/GGH_Yarn_Rebecca-Bel_Air_Yarn-2999.html

Essentially this scarf follows the Cartridge Rib pattern found in Vogue Knitting Stitchionary, but with Seed Stitch rows mixed in to make it reversible.

Using #10 needles, cast on 32 stitches.

Rows 1-5 ~ Seed Stitch (K1, P1 for border)

The rest of the scarf is as follows:

Row 1 ~ K3, *P1, K4* end K3

Row 2 ~ *P2, K3* end P2

Repeat for 10 rows.

Then:

3 Rows ~ Seed Stitch (K1, P1)

Repeat until desired length. Finish with 5 Rows of Seed Stitch and bind off.

I added fringe on mine, although it is optional. Enjoy!

Bring it On

2009-10-09T14:05:00.000-07:00

I love this baby blanket at www.pickles.no, so I decided to use this pattern but make it a bit less open.

This blanket was made with Bernat Bamboo natural blends in four shades of colors on 10.5 needles. This pattern goes very quickly and is easy and fun.

After you knit (garter stitch) the first four rows:

Row 1: K2 together, K2 together, YO, K1, YO, K1, YO, KI, YO, K2 together, K2 together.

Row 2 - 4: Knit the garter stitch.

Finish with four additional rows of garter stitch.

Mix up the colors anytime you feel like it, but just make sure that you start knitting the new color on row 1. For additional photos and info, check out:

http://www.pickles.no/bring-it-on-baby-blanket/

Violet's Cable Knit Blanket

2009-09-01T10:41:00.000-07:00

This blanket was my first cable project, and although it looks scary, it was actually easier than any lace pattern. The nice part about cables is you get seven rows of easy and fun knits and purls and only every eighth row do you have to worry about cable needles.

I used size 10.5 round bamboo needles along with the standard open cable needles, but I think that the cable needles that look like giant safety pins would be easier for this project. For yarn I chose that soft Caron "Spa" bamboo blend again, this time in Soft Sunshine. If you use this yarn, make sure to pull from two balls and you'll need just under 4 balls of yarn total (around 900 yards)

This pattern is a multiple of 11 + 1 and plus an additional 12 for the border. For my blanket I cast on 101 stitches (88 + 1 + 12)

Rows 1-8 ~ Seed Stitch (K1, P1 for border)

Row 9 and all odd rows ~

Seed Stitch for 6 stitches (K1, P1), place marker for border

P1 *K2, P6, K2, P1* till last 6 stitches

place marker for border and Seed Stitch to end (K1, P1)

Row 10 and 12 ~ 6 sts Seed Stitch, K1 *P2, K6, P2, K1* till last 6 sts, Seed Stitch to end

Row 14 ~ 6 sts Seed Stitch, K1 *P2, slip 3 sts on cable needle and hold in BACK. K3 from left needle, K3 off the cable needle, P2, K1* till last 6 sts, Seed Stitch to end

Row 16 ~ 6 sts Seed Stitch, K1 *P2, K6, P2, K1* till last 6 sts, Seed Stitch to end

Repeat Rows 9 to 16 until blanket measures desired length.

Repeat rows 1-8 and bind off knit-wise.

Assemble ends and make sure to block.

Hopefully baby Violet will love her new cable knit blanket!

Easy Lacy Baby Blanket

2009-08-14T14:31:00.000-07:00

This lacy baby blanket pattern is great for your first lace pattern, or any advanced beginner.

This pattern was originally found on the Bernat yarn site, but they didn't give the option to make a smaller, newborn size blanket. After a bit of work, I finally figured out you can adjust the size by using a pattern multiple of 10 + 7

For this blanket I used Naturally Caron "Spa" bamboo blend yarn in Ocean Spray (or choose something similar sized for 4 mm or 6 US needles.) I pulled from two balls of the yarn at the same time for the entire blanket and needed less than 4 balls total, which are 251 yards each. I knitted on size 10.5 US round needles.

Abbreviations:

k = knit

yo = yarn over

sl = slip stitch

k2tog = knit 2 stitches together

psso = pass the slipped stitch over

sts = stitches

Cast on 87 stitches

Knit the garter stitch for the first 5 rows (knit every row)

Pattern:

Row 1 ~ (rs) k4, * yo, k3, sl1, k2tog, psso, k3, yo, k1 * to last 3 sts, k3

Row 2 ~ k3, purl to last 3 sts, k3

Row 3 ~ repeat Row 1

Row 4 ~ knit

Continue pattern until blanket measures approx. 27"- 28" long and end with the second row of the pattern.

Knit the garter stitch for the last 5 rows (knit every row) and cast off knit-wise.

Assemble / weave in tails. It's a good idea to block any lacy pattern as well to open up all of the holes and show off the details. Check the links for a how-to.

Final blanket measures approx. 19" wide x 27" high

Create your own Hang Tag

2009-08-10T11:14:00.000-07:00

Adding your own Hang Tag to your finished knit gift is a great way to personalize it and make it feel like an expensive high-end item. It also gives you a chance to let the receiver know about the care instructions as well as the yarn contents.

First decide what size and shape your tag will be. The tag shown is 4" wide by 1.75" high. You can set your tag layout up on your computer, or just create something by hand.

Things to include on your tag might be your name, that the item was hand-knit, who it is for, the washing/care instructions as well as the yarn or material content.

Once all of the information is in place, you can print and glue (ideally a PVA glue so it won't wrinkle the paper) your front side onto a fun printed paper for the back of the tag. This adds personality and also thickens the paper to make it more durable. Below are some sample paper patterns found at a local paper store.

After you have mounted your paper to the back of the tag, you might want to use a corner rounder to curve the corners which is available at stores like Paper Source in a variety of sizes. You can either punch a hole and place a grommet (the metal ring) also available at Paper Source or Michael's, or cut a slit with an exacto blade to insert your ribbon or string.

To attach the tag, use a thin piece of ribbon, maybe in a fun coordinating color, or even a piece of twine or embroidery thread. Now your ready to give your beautiful knit gift!

Basket Weave Baby Blanket

2009-08-07T10:00:00.001-07:00

This simple basket weave baby blanket a perfect gift for an expecting mom. It's soft and washable making it easy to keep clean.

For this blanket I used size 10.5 (usa) round needles with Snuggly double knitting yarn. Any soft Nylon/Acrylic blend will work, but make sure it indicates size 6 (usa) needles since you will be pulling two pieces of yarn at a time. You will need two colors (I used a seafoam green and cream) and about 450 yards of each color.

Cast on 72 stitches.

Knit the garter stitch for the first 6 rows (knit every row)

Pattern:

Rows 1-4 ~ K4, *K4, P4* to last 4 stitches, K4

Rows 5-8 ~ K4, *P4, K4* to last 4 stitches, K4

Repeat this pattern pulling from both balls of the green (first color) yarn for 24 rows. Switch to one strand green (first color) one strand cream (second color) for 20 rows. The center portion is two strands of cream (second color) for 40 rows. Next use one strand of each color for 20 rows, finishing with the green (first color) for 24 rows.

Finish blanket with 6 rows of garter stitch and cast-off.

Assemble / weave in tails.

Finished blanket should measure approx. 18" wide x 25" long

Pattern is a multiple of 4 + 8 to adjust size.