Cutie Baby Kit [ Hat + Socks ]

This soft gray yarn was so great to work with that I made a baby jacket (coming soon) my first pair of socks and a beanie hat.

I used about three 50g balls of Classic Yarns "Cashsoft DK" in a cool gray color for all the items, or about 430 yards.


Hat

CO 72 sts on size 5 circular needles.
Join the work in the round, careful not to twist the stitches.
Start with a rib pattern: *K2, p2* until work is about 2"
Then start to K all sts until work measures 5"

Start to decrease:
Row 1: *K6, K2tog* 9 times
Row 2: *K5, K2tog*
Row 3: *K4, K2tog*
Row 4: *K3, K2 tog*
Row 5: *K2, K2tog*
Row 6: *K1, K2og*
Thread needle through remaining stitches and pull tight.
Weave in loose ends.

The fun part is adding on the two buttons (even though they do not serve a purpose aside from looking cute) which I just happened to have and matched the gray color. I think sewing on a tiny bow would also be really cute if it were for a girl.



Baby Socks

These socks were knit on two needles and then seamed up the back in one long seam when finished. SO much easier than trying to deal with DPNs! This pattern is based on one that I had found, but is changed enough to be different. It should fit 6-12 months (?), but really I have not tried them on any babies, so am not 100% sure.

Keep in mind that after the ribbing section, the whole thing is worked in stockinette stitch so you need to make sure you alternate your knit and purl rows accordingly.

Abbreviations:
st(s): Stitch(es)
K: Knit
P: Purl
st st: Stockinette stitch
K2tog: Knit 2 sts together in order to decrease 1 st.
P2tog: Purl 2 sts together in order to decrease 1 st.
skpo: slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 stitch, pass the slipped stitich over the knit stitch. This will decrease 1 stitch.
turn: Instead of completing the row as normal, stop after the designated stitches and flip the work over to work only this section.


With size 5 needles, CO 36 sts

Work a rib pattern *K1, P1* for 6 rows
Row 7: K all
Row 8: P all
Row 9: K5, K2tog, K to last 7 sts, skpo, K5
Row 10: P all
Row 11: K5, K2tog, K to last 7 sts, skpo, K5
Row 12: P all
Row 13: K5, K2tog, K to last 7 sts, skpo, K5
Row 14: P all
Row 15: K4, K2tog, K to last 6 sts, skpo, K4
This leaves 28 sts

Row 16: P all
Row 17: K all
Row 18: P all
Row 19: K all

Shape heel:
Next Row: P8 sts ONLY, then turn.
Work these 8 sts ONLY in st st for 9 rows.

Then, making sure you're on the wrong side:
Next Row: P2, P2tog, P1, turn
Next Row: Sl 1, K3
Next Row: P3, P2tog, P1, turn
Next Row: Sl 1, K4
Next Row: P4, P2tog

Break (really, just cut it with a tail left to weave in later) and leave those 5 sts on a stitch holder.

Now with the wrong side facing, slip the center 12 sts onto a stitch holder, rejoin the yarn to the remaining 8 sts and P to the end.
Work 8 rows in st st on these 8 sts ONLY

Next Row: K2, skpo, K1, turn
Next Row: Sl 1, P3
Next Row: K3, skpo, K1, turn
Next Row: Sl 1, P4
Next Row: K4, skpo, turn
Next Row: Sl 1, P4

Shape instep:
K5, pick up and K8 sts evenly along inside edge of heel, K12 sts from stitch holder, pick up and K8 sts evenly along inside edge of heel, and K5 from stitch holder.
38 sts total

Next Row: P all
Next Row: K11, K2tog, K12, skpo, K11
Next Row: P all
Next Row: K10, K2tog, K12, skpo, K10
Next Row: P all
Next Row: K9, K2tog, K12, skpo, K9
Next Row: P all
Next Row: K8, K2tog, K12, skpo, K8
30 sts total

Work 13 more rows in st st

Shape toe:
Next Row: K1, [skpo, K5] 4 times, K1
Next Row: P all
Next Row: K1, [skpo, K4] 4 times, K1
Next Row: P all
Next Row: K1, [skpo, K3] 4 times, K1
Next Row: P all
Next Row: K1, [skpo, K2] 4 times, K1

[P2tog] 7 times

Thread needle through remaining stitches and pull tight.
Use the mattress stitch to sew up the back for the seam.
Repeat for other sock.